Showing posts with label jackie wills. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jackie wills. Show all posts

Tuesday, 3 March 2015

Easy Way to Colour Patchwork Pattern. Fibonacci & Elongated Hexagons EPP

Easy Way to Colour a Patchwork Pattern. Fibonacci & Elongated Hexagons EPP

I have been hand sewing hexagons for over 45 years.  In the old days I would use isometric paper to design hexagon patterns.  This method works well if your hexagons are all the same size.   My packs of hexagon paper templates include hexagon grids for designing and www.patchworktemplates.com has one that can be printed free of charge.   These can be photocopied and coloured in.   

The pattern planning changes when different shapes are used in one design.  Fibonacci and Elongated Hexagons come to mind.  This also applies to other shapes that tessellate.   



There is an easy solution.    Lay paper templates out on a flat surface.   Spend time moving shapes around until your eyes are pleased. This will help visualise colours and structure of pattern.
Photograph arrangement, print onto copy paper and colour with crayons.  

Another option is to photograph, create a digital image on computer, insert photograph onto a paint or desk top publishing document. I use Pages on Macbook.   Using a small coloured shape, duplicate many time and place onto the centre of each paper template.   Print.

See: http://youtu.be/M6ePQYWEQC4

It is really simple and gives room for experimentation before committing to fabric.








Tuesday, 30 December 2014

Miniature Hexagon Patchwork, The Joy of using Hexagons each side measuring 5mm.

Miniature Hexagon Patchwork, The Joy of using Hexagons each side measuring 5mm.  

During the Christmas holidays I came across a tin of unfinished hexagon projects.  The common feature being miniature or small.  Tidying and sorting made my fingers itchy to finish or restart at least one of the started pieces.

Unfinished miniature patchwork projects by Jackie Wills

For those who have been reading my previous blogs, my last big project was using 10cm hexagons, each side measuring 5cm.  I almost became complacent and sleepy sewing large hexagons.  Jumping to the extreme I picked up the unfinished work using hexagons with each side measure 5mm.  Quite a difference,  but exactly the same technique magnified.  Yes, using 1cm hexagons with sides of 5m is fiddly.   Enjoyably fiddly.

If you plan to do this yourself I would recommend long natural thumbnails, they become a great tool folding fabric with precision over the miniature 90gsm hexagon papers.  Sewing darker colours together using matching thread makes sewing less easy, do not succumb and use light thread to sew dark hexagons together.  It will wreck the look. 

Last night I accidently put on an older pair of reading glasses and could not understand why I struggled to view my stitches. Made a massive difference using proper glasses and a good overhead lamp.  

My personal preference is to allow plenty of fold over fabric, creates a bit of bulk on the back but adds texture.  The deep purple fabric hexagons have been created using quite heavy chintz, so the purple hexagons have been hard to keep accurate.  See hexagon centred on fabric image below top right.

Do not use irregular badly covered hexagons, as they will spoil the overall look.  I noticed a real difference using lighter weight turquoise fabric, perhaps more dense and harder on the needle but much easier to fold over the paper hexagons.   

I find using a long fine crewel needle size 10 far easier than a shorter length big eye quilting needle.  Size 9 is OK, size 8 not recommended.  Compare the needles in your sewing box and experiment with the size that works for you.  

Paper hexagons can be purchased from www.patchworktemplates.co.uk

See miniature hexagon patchwork demonstrations: https://www.youtube.com/user/thejaxcollection

My renewed enthusiasm for this project of old has been most rewarding.   Like a good book its hard to put down, making one more hexagon often leads to a string of six and 20 minutes lost time......


Miniature hexagon patchwork by Jackie Wills using 1cm hexagons, each side 5mm


Tuesday, 16 December 2014

Using a sewing machine with a stop/start button for the first time

Using a sewing machine with stop/start button for first time.

Years of using a sewing machine foot peddle plus other injury has taken its toll on my leg.  Constant repetitive pressing and releasing of the foot peddle made sewing unbearable.  It will never get better, only worse the more I do the action, so I resigned my sewing machine days were over.  A great sadness.

A few weeks ago I had to use my machine for a chore after a break of several months.  The repetitive action almost made me cry, not so much in pain but in realisation that I really missed making things and being creative with my trusty Husqvarna.   At this point I looked online to check out the latest sewing machines, perhaps a machine with a knee control.   I must have been living in the dark ages because all these machines popped up with stop/start buttons, a mechanism new to me.

I phoned The Exeter Sewing Machine Company to ask if they had a machine with this option to try. Always helpful they advised I should visit for a demonstration.  A few days later with an extra spring in my step I bounced into the shop.   A young lady showed how the stop/start button and speed control on a Brother sewing machine worked.  Yes, it worked, a light press on the button and the machine zoomed, the speed adjusted with a sliding control near to the stop/start button.  In truth I was not convinced I could do the intricate embroidery and precise stitching without the familiar foot peddle control action.   Also I was not familiar with Brother sewing machines, after so many happy years using vintage Bernina 730 and later Husqvarna Lily.

I came back to my studio unconvinced.   After a few days I realised if I wanted to use a sewing machine again I had to go for it.   I purchased a Brother Innovis 350 from Exeter Sewing Machine Company.  So easy by phone and debit card.   It arrived the next day.   I briefly read instructions and within an hour the machine was threaded and fabric underfoot.  I pressed the stop/start button and the machine came to life with perfect tension straight stitches.  

I will not pretend I found it easy.  The stop/start button is instant, and the slide speed control is slow or too fast.  Using a hand instead of a foot to control action stop/star and speed takes getting used to. I need my hands to control the fabric.  Definitely need to multi task and think ahead.   Would I ever get used to it?   I walked away several times in frustration.  Each time I returned was easier.   Also I took the manual to bed and read every word.  

There came a delicious high point when I discovered the capabilities of this machine exceeded all my expectations.  The emphasis is practice, practice, read the manual and practice.  I feel a whole new sewing adventure starting.   See my video clip of this machine at work 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWxD_8-_1_E

stop start button on Brother sewing machine.

freehand embroidery and applique created using stop start button
   






Thursday, 11 December 2014

Create a patchwork quilt using large hexagons. Finished. Final Part 14

Create a patchwork quilt using large hexagons. Finished. 

On 12 February 2014 I wrote the part 1 of 14 parts on this series.   Ten months later the hexagon quilt or coverlet as I now like to call it is finished.   Like most things in life work did not map exactly as planned, creativity allows flexibility.   Initially The Coverlet was going to drape the bed completely, some months ago the plan changed because I felt the the bedroom would be swamped by colour and would remove the relaxing mode vital to the place you sleep.

I have some hexagon rosettes remaining and with those I plan to remake by sewing machine the bolster pillows already on the bed and I may even restyle the bedhead.   

From one spare curtain, plus additional complimentary fabrics from my collection,
each hexagon has been a joy to create, each stage a pleasure to view and the final result pleases me enormously.  Midway making my partner of 20 years unexpectedly proposed to me and we married within five weeks in May.  Its been a wonderful year.

I have created a little video clip to show the end result https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSWJBAWXpqg

Patchwork paper templates can be purchased from www.patchworktemplates.co.uk and links will take to further gallery images.

For those who have been following progress I hope its been enjoyable too.   






Friday, 28 March 2014

Create a patchwork quilt using large hexagons. Part 6

Looking at the hexagon rosettes.  Looking at combinations


The design process is really about to begin now.   Over the last few weeks I have created over 30 rosettes using the spare Gosford Cranberry curtain.   In addition I have created lots of hexagons in two neutral colours cream and grey.  I am not convinced they will work in the design so the only way to find out is to create hexagons and throw them in with the rest.   In addition red and yellow hexagons have been added to experiment with.
scattered hexagons and rosettes


Rosettes coordinated into groups

Next co-ordinate similar rosettes together.   I find  that doing this helps take stock of what you have created and will enable you to use them in a balanced way in your design.

floral centre
fauna centre


Above:   Surrounding a rosette with the same colour creates a completely different look.   Take time doing this and enjoy the process of eliminating the results that are wrong.   My view is that the red is far too bright against the gentle colours.  Looks a bit of an eyesore.









Above: By changing three of the hexagons from red to grey adjusts the look.   Adding another round of hexagons softens the red.
There are endless combinations.  Avoid the mistake of rushing.  Lay the hexagons and rosettes out in a place they will not be disturbed.  Return and juxtapose.   Enjoy this process.






Left:  I have removed the red altogether and created a completely different look.  I think the grey works very well, as it softens the leafy centre.  The floral red outer  rosettes will balance the centre rosette.  Keep moving the hexagons and rosettes around.

If its inconvenient to leave them in a place without disturbance, lay out and take lots of photos.  Look at the photos and decide if any changed should be made.   The look is completely changed again by removing the leaf rosettes and replacing them with combinations of floral.

Believe it or not this is a fun process and should not be rushed.  Enjoy.  Ask others what they think.  Its always good listening to other ideas.

Also think of the bedroom, the bed, furniture and flooring.  If in doubt take your work and lay out on the bed.   Get a real feel for the design, the colour balance and the ultimate look that appeals to you.

Do not be in a rush to sew together.

My next blog will take the design a step further.



Take a peep at
www.patchworktemplates.com for more information and ideas.





Tuesday, 17 September 2013

Black Denim Throws, Wallhangings or Floor Covering.

Black Denim Throws, Wallhangings or Floor Covering.


When I started using denim back in the early 1990's I realised how versatile and creative you could be with this fabric.   It is strong, easy to sew, great to embroider on and most of all can be changed by adding substances to it.  This took me down a pathway of experimentation, trying out different weights of denim, playing with colour discharge techniques, adding dye and paint.  Each product, brand and quantity created something new.

When I chanced upon black denim for the first time I noticed that it had a slightly different texture to indigo. I bought it only because the indigo had sold out.  It was an eureka moment when I added colour discharge for the first time, a rusty colour substance filled the bowl and the fabric changed very quickly indeed.  It sort of scared me as I thought it was going to melt away.   I washed the product out and left to dry naturally overnight, and awoke in the morning to find  I had natural effect animal hide.  Was a very exciting moment.  Brilliant for waistcoats.   See images below:

waistcoat detail by Jackie Wills
Waistcoat that inspired bedspread below by Jackie Wills.





















Then I was given a commission to create a bedspread.   My domestic Brother sewing machine would not allow me to sew great widths or lengths so I optioned to create panels of various lengths.   Each panel colour discharged differently by manipulating the fabric/products in process.    I twisted black and rustic beige wool then machine couched onto each panel.  Simple skeleton lines.  Using earth colours for thread.

Denim bedspread commission by Jackie Wills 1992



At the time a created two other pieces which had more intense design.   The larger is a replica of the smaller in scale.   A friend recently discovered these forgotten works and I was surprised how enthusiastic she was about them.   To me they look dated, but have photographed well in situ today.
Denim is wonderful as it gets better the more it is handled.

I have created a video clip to accompany this blog: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nU9n81a0Kw



Large denim throw by Jackie Wills
Denim Wallhanging by Jackie Wills




Tuesday, 27 August 2013

The patchwork quilt that made me want to sew hexagons

The patchwork quilt that made me want to sew hexagons

Do you remember the first encounter which sparked your wonderment of patchwork, the force that said to "I want to make one like that".  I was seven years old when that moment hit me.   My Mother took me to Torquay Museum in Devon.  I remember lots of stuffed birds in glass cases and fossils at the entrance.

We climbed the stairs to The Laycock Gallery situated on the top floor. My eyes immediately focused on a huge glass panel which housed a beautiful Hexagon Patchwork Quilt.    I studied with awe the neatness of the arranged small hexagons sewn together by hand.  The colours were not vibrant, mostly brown, beige, ochre and salmon pink, blues and olive green cotton fabric.  I was totally mesmerised by this massive beautifully crafted hexagon quilt.  I asked my mother to teach me how to sew hexagon patchwork.  She did.

The quilt that so inspired me was created by Marianna Louttit (circa 1835) and she lived in the village of Mylor in Cornwall.



About 23 years later 1989, writing for the American Magazine "Quilt World" Feb/March 1989 (see article below this blog), I revisited Torquay Museum in the hope that the quilt was still there.  It was, the  impact was just as powerful as I remembered.  I took the photographs reproduced in this blog.   Apologies for the poor quality.

Fast forward another 24 years to  August 2013, and the photographs re-surfaced in a long lost box of diaries.   For the third time in my life the memory of my happy childhood hit me.   Still sewing hexagons, still loving hexagons and happy knowing that thousands of ladies all over the world are creating patchwork quilts using hexagons purchased from my websites, produced from my own hands.
See: http://www.patchworktemplates.com






Saturday, 27 April 2013

Starting a creative business or project. Why you should photograph everything you make.

Starting a creative business or project.  Why you should photograph everything you make.


Throughout my creative business life spanning of over 30 years I always photographed everything I created.  No one told me to do this, it was just something I did.   When I first started out I did not realise the importance of this.  Now I do.

Over the last few days I have been sorting out all my photographic records of all sold waistcoats, about 850.    This comprises of several huge ring binder files crammed full of photographs in A4 plastic covers.   In addition I have several shoe box size plastic containers full of 6" x 4" photographs and some smaller albums.  At least a thousand photographs needed to be sorted and put into some order.    The reason for this quest was to look for a certain image of a garment I created many years ago.

My first camera was held closed with gaffer tape.  It worked and the images were just enough to create a recollection before selling.   Bearing in mind my first garments were created long before digital photography.   Then came computers and the wonderful facility of  selecting and editing images before printing.    Always print your photographs as you cannot rely on computers to preserve your images for the long term.   Think of your old family sepia albums.  Precious beyond words.

I am in the process of putting all my sold works online.  Its a mammoth task scanning and numbering each photographed garment.

Now for the scary revelation and the reason why you should photograph everything you make.   I am shocked to realise that I am scanning images of work I created 13 - 15 years ago of which I have no recollection creating.  I forgot  about a huge number of sold garments I made.   Crazy because each garment I create is an extreme labour intensive process from start to finish,  from cutting the cloth, planning the design, hand painting then embroidering before making into a garment.   Long hours of  intensive creative thought and energy.   How could I forget.

Keeping memories in your head is not enough.  Four images of work I completely forgot about.  Four of about 50.

All my works will be available online in the next few weeks. Contact me for further information.

Thanks for reading.


 















Friday, 15 February 2013

Sewing Machines: Bernina 730 Record versus Husqvarna Lily 555

Bernina 730 Record versus Husqvarna Lily 555


This blog is my personal view.  It concentrates on a couple of pros and cons of the above sewing machines. If I had to choose one to use as my constant it would be a very difficult decision.  Based on reliability and the fact the tension rarely fails, the Husqvarna would win by a hairline margin.  Based pleasure of using, the Bernina wins hands down.

They are both workhorses and have both been truly hammered over the last 15/20 years.   I can honestly say, apart from a seasonal service neither of them have visited the sewing machine hospital.  Considering how much fabric has passed under those feet, and thread through the spools and loops.

It was love at first sight when the Bernina, called out to me from the shelf at the Exeter Sewing Machine Shop.  The intention was to purchase latest Bernina model but when I saw the Record 730 it took me just two seconds to change my mind.  The Husqvarna was purchased as a spare  but it is now my primary machine.

The two embroidered samples below show machine embroidery by Jackie Wills.  See more http://picasaweb.google.com/thejaxcollection 

Bernina 730 Record












Pros:


The Swiss build is superb, a real looker, no square corners. The latches click, hinges strong, by sound it purrs.

Personal to me:


Bernina Embroidered Horse Mane 
The tapering embroidery stitches, the lever manoeuvre allows for long tapering effect from wide to narrow to nil and back again, creating a graceful uninterrupted line of stitching.

Freehand embroidery using a foot and lowering of the feet is second to none.  I dont need to use an embroidery hoop on thicker fabrics.  I can whizz back, forward and around and around at great speed without the thread breaking.  Effortless and easy.

Removing lint and dust from the inside of the machine is helped by the design of the machine.

Cons:

Occasionally stitches skip which is annoying when perfect stitching is paramount.  Unpicking is frustrating.  Replacing the needle helps.
As always the case when you need to demonstrate to the sewing machine doctor it sews perfectly!



Husqvarna Lily 555















Pros:  

Heavy, strong, endless variations of stitch can be created by the computerised system.  In my experience very reliable.



Husqvarna embroidered.

Personal to me:  


Freehand embroidery works but is limited, lower the feed teeth does not give fluidity to manoeuvre fabric around and around.   Stitches are neat and reliable.  Many features which make it a joy to use, as a general all rounder.  Stitch memory is particularly useful.

Cons:  


Removing lint and dust from inside machine is limited.






Its great to open the casing to clean the lint, dust and occasional broken threads from the machine.  Also there are points to oil the machine.  Its important not to over lubricate your machine.

Opening this machine makes you appreciate how well it has been designed.


Husqvarna Lily.  Cleaning is limited to removing the spool casing.  The manual says no lubrication (oil) is needed.   Must admit I find this strange with so much use.