The Lost and Found Fibonacci Patchwork Quilt

The Lost and Found Fibonacci Patchwork Quilt

I swim every day in the sea at Torre Abbey Steps in Torquay, often joined by other regulars who share the same enthusiasm and pitch up at the same time.  Topics of conversation are wide ranging but often refer to sea state, weather conditions and the inane comments that people make when passing.  There are only so many ways you can answer to "Is it cold in there?" or "you are brave"  My general response is to smile and reply nicely that the sea state is Caribbean......

Anyway one day I was talking, unusually off topic about my love of textiles and in particular the fibonacci quilts and waistcoats I created at Cockington Court. See https://uniquewaistcoats.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/fibonacci-patchwork-waistcoats.html  and https://youtu.be/BP-TC20Po0w   https://youtu.be/_lxa-9FV7bs A regular swimmer called Laird overheard the conversation and had a recollection of me teaching his late mother, Elizabeth over 25 years ago.  It was rather wonderful to recall to Laird what a clever and dedicated needlewoman she was.   I talked about the regular Tuesday group and how she added her enthusiasms and things we talked about.   We discussed the work she created and I could recall one very large hexagonal quilt which Laird had inherited and another wall hanging created using glazed cotton chintz that he did not recall.

This piece of work suddenly re-surfaced after he mentioned it to another family member.  It had been hiding, folded and unappreciated in a cupboard.  Laird showed me and it was a delight for me to see after all these years and wonderful that Laird has been reunited with a stunning piece of work so lovingly sewn by his late Mother. 

Driven by negative thoughts whilst deep in the creative process.

As a year round sea/river swimmer and hiker often going out at night,  I was not happy with the range of hats on sale with the ability to be visible and keep head warm in the sea as well as a bit quirky and unique.  The answer was to design my own.

Last night I was working late into the night sewing on my machine making my new hi-vis neon swim/hiking hats.  Tweaking and improving the design before adding a range for sale.   Will probably need to make about 20 hats before I am happy with one I can use as a general template.  This is good news for my outdoor friends whom I will give the prototypes too!

Actually promoting my new hat range is not the reason of writing this blog post, the reason I am writing it is because late last night it occurred to me I was being driven by negative thoughts whilst deep in the creative process.   I was having thoughts about things that were highly personal, for example people who had upset me, recalling deeply unpleasant word by word conversations and actions, upsetting news concerning family and friends and past sad personal situations which only surface when deep in the creative process.   Thinking back to the start of my professional creative life in 1984, I recalled in each instance when developing something new and challenging,  my creative drive was coming from personal anxieties, angst and sad situations.  I was really surprised by this.  Has anyone else experienced it?

I would like to add that this emotion only occurs to me when developing something new, not when design is sorted.   Once design sorted, the creative process of making is always with calmness, positivity and happy thoughts.

Interesting stuff.

Images below of some of my new Hi-vis neon outdoor hats:  Each one is unique. Two pics of me wearing on Dartmoor a couple of days ago.  Further information will be posted on my website in due course:  www.jackiewills.com

Idea for Patchwork or Needlework Sample. Create Wearable Pocket

Idea for Patchwork or Textile Sample.  Create Wearable Pocket.

So annoying when you are chasing around, phone rings, stops before you reach it or you want to read something quickly and glasses are in another part of building.   For convenience and practical working I need to have mobile and landline phone, plus glasses and handkerchief all in one place without having to search.

Clothes with pockets never seem to work and light purses or bags can be cumbersome around the neck.

Looking for a practical use for a patchwork sample created recently, a wearable pocket was a clear winner.

Easy to make using no fraying fabric.  I used a light nylon mesh.   Cut a rectangle double the size of needlework.  Allow extra around the edges and for seams.   Cut long strip for tie, enough to go around your waist and to make a bow.   I folded tie length in half.

Sew together. 

The Christmas Hexagon Patchwork Quilt

The Christmas Hexagon Patchwork Quilt by Jackie Wills

At this time of year I am reminded of "The Christmas Quilt" created in 1988.  I take it out of the ottoman and drape over the mermaid coffee table. With so many stitches in one piece of work can't fail to stir memories of its creation.   The Christmas Quilt pattern was born out of an earlier work sewn in the 1970's (see image below)  The plan was to replicate some of the design using beautiful glazed cotton chintz fabric called "Cambridge" from Peter Jones in Sloane Square.   At the time I was working in London but commuting each week to Torquay.  Lots of hours on coaches and sometimes trains.  Sewing commenced once out of Heathrow until Exeter or vice versa.  In those days generally a three hour coach ride,  trust me, this journey was a welcome respite from the hectic pace of London work and living.

Memories of leaving Victoria Station in twilight or dark,  sitting on the top deck of the 501, the coach would stop and start  through the Friday night rush hour traffic via Victoria, Embankment, Earls Court, Chiswick and onto Heathrow.  This journey provided really good views into houses specially those with lights on.   I am sure people must have been aware that travellers could see straight into their homes, it was a fascinating insight.  Watching anonymous relaxed people sitting on sofas, hoovering or at the dinner table.

In those days a uniformed hostess wearing a red or blue suit would start service on the 501 after the Heathrow Stop.  This was my cue to get the tin of prepared fabric and hexagon papers and start sewing.  I set myself targets and pre-planned how many rosettes, straight lines or rounds of hexagons should be sewn on that journey.  Travelling light meant no room for extra fabric.  I was always mindful that loose cotton, pins and needles should be kept tidy.   Accidentally dropping a needle whilst travelling was dreadful, specially if someone was sitting next to me.  I always made sure it was found.  Often people would want to talk about what I was creating and conversations would be enlightening and lead to other subjects.  

"The Christmas Quilt" was idea to sew in portions and the work steadily grew.  Once back in London I would lay the work out and plan its next course before the weekend journey.  Eventually it all came together.   Happy memories of the 501 Coach and creating "The Christmas Quilt"

"The Christmas Quilt" by Jackie Wills 1988 

"The Christmas Quilt" by Jackie Wills 1988

Hexagon Quilt created by Jackie Wills in the 1970's which inspired "The Christmas Quilt" by Jackie Wills 1988

Left "The Christmas Quilt" by Jackie Wills 1988

Black Denim Throws, Wallhangings or Floor Covering.

Black Denim Throws, Wallhangings or Floor Covering.


When I started using denim back in the early 1990's I realised how versatile and creative you could be with this fabric.   It is strong, easy to sew, great to embroider on and most of all can be changed by adding substances to it.  This took me down a pathway of experimentation, trying out different weights of denim, playing with colour discharge techniques, adding dye and paint.  Each product, brand and quantity created something new.

When I chanced upon black denim for the first time I noticed that it had a slightly different texture to indigo. I bought it only because the indigo had sold out.  It was an eureka moment when I added colour discharge for the first time, a rusty colour substance filled the bowl and the fabric changed very quickly indeed.  It sort of scared me as I thought it was going to melt away.   I washed the product out and left to dry naturally overnight, and awoke in the morning to find  I had natural effect animal hide.  Was a very exciting moment.  Brilliant for waistcoats.   See images below:

waistcoat detail by Jackie Wills

Waistcoat that inspired bedspread below by Jackie Wills.

Then I was given a commission to create a bedspread.   My domestic Brother sewing machine would not allow me to sew great widths or lengths so I optioned to create panels of various lengths.   Each panel colour discharged differently by manipulating the fabric/products in process.    I twisted black and rustic beige wool then machine couched onto each panel.  Simple skeleton lines.  Using earth colours for thread.

Denim bedspread commission by Jackie Wills 1992

At the time a created two other pieces which had more intense design.   The larger is a replica of the smaller in scale.   A friend recently discovered these forgotten works and I was surprised how enthusiastic she was about them.   To me they look dated, but have photographed well in situ today.
Denim is wonderful as it gets better the more it is handled.

I have created a video clip to accompany this blog: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nU9n81a0Kw

Large denim throw by Jackie Wills

Denim Wallhanging by Jackie Wills

Tatting (Frivolite) Vintage samples from my collection.

 A short post script from previous blog:

Tatting (Frivolite) Vintage samples from my collection. (5 photos)

Sorting through the boxes in my collection, I discovered these fine works of Tatting with a Tatting Shuttle. 

For those who remember Fleet Street, Torquay in the early 1960's, Mrs Tregale had a needlework/haberdashery shop on The Terrace (now occupied by a Pattiserie).  

It was a treasure trove of haberdashery curiosity.

As a child I remember being in awe of the stacked cardboard boxes from floor to ceiling.    This fragile agile aged lady with white hair and a gentle smile would slide a  a wooden ladder into position, then climb to slowly reach the top,  delve into a box and remove the exact contents requested.  The boxes looked identical with small labels. 

The tatting shuttle shown was purchased from Mrs Tregale. I begged my mother to teach me. Unfortunately my patience did not take to this fine art of needlework. 

The perfectly created Tatted collar has a price label of 10 shillings.  

1000 Waistcoats later..................

Going to write this blog about once a week.   Last week wrote about my first commission.  This week spring forward 25 years, nearly 1000 waistcoats later to present day.   Its overwhelming to think the first waistcoat could lead to nearly a thousand unique waistcoats.  On reflection it seems like a mammoth waistcoat breeding programme.   One lead to another, lead to meeting another person, lead to a change in style, lead to change in direction, lead to another boundary, to a new fabric, a new technique, lead to tears but most of all lead to personal fulfilment and happiness.

Glancing through my unorganised galleries of work

http://picasaweb.google.com/thejaxcollection

I can recall the creation of each garment, and definitely have favourites. Waistcoat 71 is one of them.   Since 1991 denim has been one of my favourite fabrics after a chance experiment with a pair of old jeans.  More about that in a future blog.

Waistcoat 71 was born in about 1997 when Gordon and I were renovating a Mervyn Seal 1960's style house S'Argamassa (renamed "Sailing Free") on the Marine Drive area of Torquay.   It was a wonderful place to have a studio, despite all the noise of the re-build.

The abstract design of five leaves on a stem was sort of inspired by this house,  I found a chestnut leaf in the garden, of which I created an abstract version.     The embroidery is courtesy of my beloved Bernina 701 sewing machine (circa 1960's) purchased from the Exeter Sewing Machine Company.

Like all my work, the machine stitching is random,  not planned and not marked onto the fabric in advance.  The love hearts can be seen in a number of my garments of that time, a quirky abstract heart, different on each garment applied, with a flume of embroidery cascading until it felt "right" to stop the machine.

The black denim  colour randomly discharged with bleach to create the animal hide effect.   The hand painted designs were applied where the fabric distress is paler for maximum impact.   The leaves have been machine embroidered using satin stitch.  Then turquoise stitching sewn between the leaves.  The garment as one front pocket.   In total there are eight leaf stems and eight hearts.   Strange as I normally work in threes or sixes.

At that time created many garments with "Chestnut Leaf"  theme.  This and another wacky blue denim is still in my collection (waistcoat 47).

Next blog will be about my beloved Bernina 730 Record and Husqvarna Lily sewing machines.  They are both brilliant to use, but both have pros and cons for certain types of work.